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Author Topic: Hosed on All Shots outside Controlled Studio  (Read 6692 times)

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tab62

« on: March 15, 2011, 09:33 »
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Hi Stock Folks,

My approval ratio on my pics taken inside the controlled studio is not bad but almost all my pics taken outside of the studio are getting this message for the stock photo editors-

"The lighting in the photograph is poor.
The photograph contains lighting mistakes. Common lighting mistakes include underexposure, overexposure, harsh lighting, unintended shadows, flare spots on an object, white-balance issues and imperfect color reproduction."


I used my Speedlite 580 II flash as  my lighting only since these shots are normally taken on location such as the doctor's office. My concerns are that do I have to stage all my shots? The doctor will not allow me to bring all my soft-box lights and take up their time. How do I take pics that will be accepted via my flash only or am I hosed?


Thanks.


Tom


« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2011, 09:43 »
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...My concerns are that do I have to stage all my shots? ...

Ideally yes. If you have a good doctor friend, you may set up a shoot on the weekend and you can barter location costs for shots (photos not injections!) the doctor can use for their marketing/advertising.

« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2011, 10:37 »
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Ideally you wouldn't even use a doctor, maybe his office, but even they are problematic with tons of visible logos etc. It's very hard to compete using documentary style images. I had a chance to use a dentist's office for a shoot, my friend the dentist, didn't appear in a single image, it was all models with nice new clean uniforms. Patients were models. Lots of lights. Lots of money up front with no guarantee of a return. Makes you want to stay in a day job.

tab62

« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2011, 11:28 »
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so my speedlite II with the diffuser (full Bulb type) will not cut the mustard?

traveler1116

« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2011, 11:31 »
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Not sure about it cutting mustard but to me the white balance looks off and it looks underexposed.

« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2011, 11:44 »
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That and the table is the same color as the skin, so you don't get much contrast. My two cents as a non-photographer.

tab62

« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2011, 12:29 »
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Good comments the table- the white balance is another story. After taking a class (2 hours on WB) it is so subjective. I used camera raw 6.4 and selected Flash for my white balance. I've tried that little passport with the all the colors but not sure how to use it properly. A lot to learn...

« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2011, 13:07 »
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Good comments the table- the white balance is another story. After taking a class (2 hours on WB) it is so subjective. I used camera raw 6.4 and selected Flash for my white balance. I've tried that little passport with the all the colors but not sure how to use it properly. A lot to learn...
Wow __ a 2 hour class on WB? I think you're over-complicating things. When I bought all my camera bodies the WB was set to AUTO by default and I've never changed it. If adjustments are needed later (rarely) then I can do it in PS. I always shoot JPEG too. My own 'rule of thumb' for shooting stock is either to have optimum conditions ... or the means, equipment and the skill to create them ... or don't bother to shoot at all. Sticking a Speedlight on your camera, with or without diffuser, for internal shots is very unlikely to create optimum conditions unless there's tons of natural light and a few reflectors available. A Speedlight is ok for providing a bit of fill-in flash in outdoor sunny conditions but that's about it IMHO.

« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2011, 13:52 »
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Another note, if that is an actual med chart in the photo, even with a good release, I would be reluctant to use such an image. I am not particularly cautious but med. charts could expose you to unnecessary grief.

tab62

« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2011, 15:19 »
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Good points on the med charts- I did zoom in at even 300% and couldn't read it at all due to this concern. Interesting the camera being set to Auto on the White Balance- currently I have it set on Neutral...

« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2011, 15:27 »
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Shoot raw so you can modify WB later. Grey reference card can help you set it right. Bounce light of white surfaces.

« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2011, 15:32 »
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Neutral is a picture style, not white balance (at least on Canons). I'm a firm believer in setting manual white balance for each location. It is fairly easy if you follow the instructions in your manual. I would also recommend a collapsible gray card.

ShadySue

  • There is a crack in everything
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2011, 06:38 »
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Just a thought:
Assuming you've got models, I don't see anything in the photo in the top shot that would mean it actually had to be shot in an actual doctor's office.

« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2011, 07:02 »
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so my speedlite II with the diffuser (full Bulb type) will not cut the mustard?

nope, not good, need to do these type shots under controlled conditions or bring more speedlites; use the speedlites off-camera. 

« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2011, 07:56 »
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Have you considered using multiple off camera flashes for your lighting?  Or even a single $6 clamp light with a CFL bulb and a cheese cloth for diffusion.

jbarber873

« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2011, 08:32 »
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    As others have said, a speedlight on the camera will not give professional results. If you only have one light, you need to get that light off to one side, and fill the shadows with reflector cards ( nothing fancy, even a 30"x40" white artist board will do). Another way to get around it is to bounce the light off the ceiling ( only if it's white) and fill it in. As an alternative, go by a window and forget the flash, just use the window light and a big card. Get the card as close as possible without it being in the picture, and if it's too strong, back it off. Light from any source falls off by 1/4 for every unit of distance, which is why the top of your shot is darker than the front. Diffusing the light will help with the harsh highlights, but it won't make the light more even in terms of distance from the source. You are obviously interested in learning, so before you go into a shoot, play around with your lighting, try different things and know what you need to do before you shoot. Then you can concentrate on the models and setup.

« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2011, 10:24 »
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I occasionally photograph my daughter when she is at the dentist and once when she was really young being weighed on a scale at the doctors. I found you could get half decent results if you crank the ISO a bit, use a IS lens, and watch for the action to stop a bit. Usually there is some problems with conflicting light sources but you can usually find a color temp that works alright. Adding a direct on camera flash doesn't do much in this situation except Pi** off the subjects. Cameras clicking are bad enough. My experience has always been that, although friends will often help out, they often wish they hadn't. The process has to be seamless, as if you weren't there. I still use friends occasionally, but you get so much more milage and so many more usable images with models and actors. Even if it's just a TFP deal. Basic lighting isn't all that much money, even as people suggested getting the flash off camera and up at an angle but does require more set up time which is difficult to do in a working office. In my opinion what you are trying to do is pretty hard.


tab62

« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2011, 09:38 »
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Tons of very professional comments! I cannot thank you folks enough for these comments! I am putting them in a word file and taking good notes! Once again thanks.


Tom

grp_photo

« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2011, 09:54 »
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A hot-shoe flash is the worst light I can think of (it is okay as a fill in but not more) no matter how expensive it was (so it doesn't matter if it is a 20Bucks hotshoe-flash or a speedlite II the results are the same). Drinking the Kool-Aid and buying completely overpriced empty yoghurt cups isn't a solution at all neither to do a two hour workshop at WB alone  ::). The only solution I have for you is to buy 17 Profoto B3s than every thing will be fine  ;).

« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2011, 10:12 »
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Hot-shoe flash directed to a ceiling or walls can actually be sufficient for the shots like that one. It will not produce a nice creative lighting but it can give enough light, and it will be diffused. But that will not work well if the walls have a strong color cast.

To give you an example, this picture was made with the window light plus one flash directed at the ceiling:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1453401313990

« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2011, 20:49 »
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Tom

If you wish a good read on the mindset of a location photographer, pickup a copy of "hot shoe diaries" by Joe McNally.  He has shot for Nat. Geo, Life and all the other big names.  The book is not so much a teaching of lighting but gives an excellent view into the mindset of a pro. location photographer; he discussed white balance, when to set it other than what is recommended, on camera and off camera flash, gels on flash, natural light, etc.

I am a wildlife photographer but much of his advice is still excellent for me; it gives me a view into the creative mind and helps me take my images from snaps to wall-hangers.

tab62

« Reply #21 on: March 18, 2011, 09:38 »
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I wanted to say say thank you very much folks for all the great advice! I will do my homework to include reading some books - thus take a breather and concentrate on upping my skills before shooting outside the laboratory.

Thanks.


Tom


 

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